Well after the excitment of the other day we have had time to think about the events of that night. We now think that the croc had a couple of goes at the flag earlier in the evening which was what the vibration was that we noticed and commented to each other on. Hence the thoughts of the rigging failing. Then it would appear that the croc came back and decided to take on the boat. The teeth marks go at least a couple of feet under the transom and the rubber fender that is attached to stern permenently was pulled back a quarter of an inch or more and the corner of the stern has a chip at least a quarter of an inch deep probably more. Anyway we did sleep well the first night here.
On the 29th the boats around us all had to come over and have a look at the damage and tell more stories about crocodiles. We ended up the day with eight adults and two children over for what turned out to be dinner and drinks. Everyone arrived with food and drink and it was another fun evening. Today we have been anchored here wondering what to do. You cannot go swimming and do not even what to go ashore as the croc's are around, and we do see them. So you know that there are bigger ones around and thinking about our flag and how far it is above the water you don't even want to hang over the side. I spent some time trying to figure out how the water maker works as we are having a problem and it seems to be the low pressure pump. We will have to figure that out before leaving for Indonesia. This evening we all had sundowners on Sea Mist.
Since leaving Brisbane we have sailed 1400 miles up the east coast of Australia and are now over the top only 75 miles from Papua New Guinea through the Torres Staight. The water depth between the two counties is only a few meters in depth so there are shipping channels that are very narrow for all the freighter traffic. For us we will leave tomorrow to cross the Gulf of Carpenteria to Cape Wessel which is 330 miles and will take us a couple of days. The first 80 miles we are in no more than 10 meters of water! We will post next when we get some more internet.
Saturday, June 30, 2012
Thursday, June 28, 2012
Why Aussies do not fly their national flag
Three boats left Portland Roads the next morning and we all arrived in Margaret Bay mid afternoon after another day of downwind sailing with winds around the 20 plus knot range. Justin and Deb on Miss Behaving invited us and Y Knot over for a pot luck dinner. The girls did a great job with the salads and desserts and Justin and daughter Hailey had caught a tuna so we had that as sushimi and also BBQ'd. It was a good evening and we are feeling like the cruising life is returning. As we were up a little late we all decided to stay the following day. Marian did some washing of clothes and some clean up stuff while I fixed or at least looked at a few things. Then we all met on the beach and the two kids were doing hand stands and climbing and hauling down a few coconuts from one of the trees. That evening we all had sundowners on Y Knot and enjoyed a calm evening.
The next morning we were off at day break for Escape River. It was a long day of eleven hours of down wind sailing with winds only around fifteen knots so not too fast. When sailing down wind at 15k and the boat going at six and a half knots the wind over the deck is only eight and a half and that is just enough to keep our sails filled. We had to cross a sand bar entering the river and we were down to two meters under the keel but once in the river the depths increased. We ended up a few miles up the river in mangrove swamps on either side of the anchorage with large tidal areas encroching on the river. We all were tired and we were off to bed early.
You remember I mentioned the Salties in a previous blog. Well at 0100 (1 am) we were awoken by a crash that sounded like we had been run into by a large boat. We went straight up in the air from the shock. This is not what we ever want to hear when asleep on the boat. We hit all our outside lights and to our relief there was no other boat around but we did not know what the heck hit us. At that point we started to wake up and thought that maybe it was a crocodile!!!! but what would he have been doing? Just in case we shut up the companion way and the aft window but were not going to look over the side just in case it was a crock and he was interested in another bash at us. Well our minds started to tick over wondering just what the crash was. We did think that we felt a vibration in the rigging just when the crash occured so spent the rest of the night trying to sleep and wondering if the part of the rigging had failed which would be a very big problem. After first light we were up on deck and very happy to find everything in good order. Then Marian looked at our Canadian flag. Two thirds of it were still attached to the flag pole but the outer red panel was torn right off!! Next we looked at the stern of Kilkea II and saw that the port corner was bashed with bits of gel coat and fiberglass on the swim steps. Checking this out we found that there was a quarter of an inch deep cut about the size of a loonie (Canadian dollar coin) on the corner of the hull with cuts under the hull where the monster mouth tried to eat the boat. I think in hindsight that the flag had some movement and was flapping and that attracked the Salty who probably jumped up at the flag and then hit the boat. Now we know why Aussies rarely fly a flag, or a least not a big one, on their boats.
A couple of hours later we pulled up anchor and went over to the pearl farm at the entrance to the river. The owner had not heard of this happening before and even came out to take some pictures as I don't think they like the idea of an aggressive Salty in the area. We all bought a pearl or two for the ladies then we were off to go over the top of Australia at Cape York. We rounded the Cape and sailed over to Possession Island where we are anchored for the night. Hopefully tonight we will have an uninterupted sleep.
The next morning we were off at day break for Escape River. It was a long day of eleven hours of down wind sailing with winds only around fifteen knots so not too fast. When sailing down wind at 15k and the boat going at six and a half knots the wind over the deck is only eight and a half and that is just enough to keep our sails filled. We had to cross a sand bar entering the river and we were down to two meters under the keel but once in the river the depths increased. We ended up a few miles up the river in mangrove swamps on either side of the anchorage with large tidal areas encroching on the river. We all were tired and we were off to bed early.
You remember I mentioned the Salties in a previous blog. Well at 0100 (1 am) we were awoken by a crash that sounded like we had been run into by a large boat. We went straight up in the air from the shock. This is not what we ever want to hear when asleep on the boat. We hit all our outside lights and to our relief there was no other boat around but we did not know what the heck hit us. At that point we started to wake up and thought that maybe it was a crocodile!!!! but what would he have been doing? Just in case we shut up the companion way and the aft window but were not going to look over the side just in case it was a crock and he was interested in another bash at us. Well our minds started to tick over wondering just what the crash was. We did think that we felt a vibration in the rigging just when the crash occured so spent the rest of the night trying to sleep and wondering if the part of the rigging had failed which would be a very big problem. After first light we were up on deck and very happy to find everything in good order. Then Marian looked at our Canadian flag. Two thirds of it were still attached to the flag pole but the outer red panel was torn right off!! Next we looked at the stern of Kilkea II and saw that the port corner was bashed with bits of gel coat and fiberglass on the swim steps. Checking this out we found that there was a quarter of an inch deep cut about the size of a loonie (Canadian dollar coin) on the corner of the hull with cuts under the hull where the monster mouth tried to eat the boat. I think in hindsight that the flag had some movement and was flapping and that attracked the Salty who probably jumped up at the flag and then hit the boat. Now we know why Aussies rarely fly a flag, or a least not a big one, on their boats.
teeth marks on the transom
where did the other third of the flag go!!!!
A couple of hours later we pulled up anchor and went over to the pearl farm at the entrance to the river. The owner had not heard of this happening before and even came out to take some pictures as I don't think they like the idea of an aggressive Salty in the area. We all bought a pearl or two for the ladies then we were off to go over the top of Australia at Cape York. We rounded the Cape and sailed over to Possession Island where we are anchored for the night. Hopefully tonight we will have an uninterupted sleep.
Sunday, June 24, 2012
Winter down under
We left Lizard island on Thursday as the winds were dropping and it was time to start moving. We did manage to have a swim and see some of the under water sights but will get no more for awhile as we are now in the domain of Salties, commonly know as salt water crocodiles, which will eat almost anything including, we are told, rubber duckies, known as dinghies. The locals suggest not to hang anything over the side of the boat as it may attract them.
We sailed 83 miles to the Flinders group of islands and spent the night in calm waters with little wind. There were three boats with us, Sea Mist, Imagine, and Y Knot. It was just a quick overnight and we were all off in the morning to Morris Island. A very nice little island with a very big reef which is above water at low tide with miles of sand bars to walk on. As we were first to anchor at the island Marian and I put our dinghy in the water and ran the others to shore for a walk when they arrived. Everyone had a good time getting off the boats and stretching their legs. John on Sea Mist even went for two quick dips. Yes the water is getting warmer. I think we all would have gone swimming but we are all nervous about the Salties. The next morning before we left the anchorage I was looking at the beach right where John went for a dip and sure enough there was a very big Salty on the beach. We had a radio call the evening before from a local boat advising us to be careful as there are lots of Crocks around from here on up the coast. No swimming for the crew of Kilkea.
We had another day of sailing all of which has been downwind so very comfortable just ghosting along at seven knots or so. We anchored in Portland Roads a big community of seven people but it does have a very good restaurant serving home cooked meals. So after a walk with Robin and Fergus from Y Knot we sat down for lunch when s/v Miss Behaving, ( Justin and Deb with children Hailey and Reilly) arrived so it was eight for lunch and good conversations. We had to leave the shore at around two thirty as the tide was going out and we would have been stuck far from water. We had been taken to shore by Robin and Fergus and when we returned to Kilkea they came aboard for a cold one and more boating talk. They are new to the cruising life and are from Brisbane so are very interested in our adventures and how we do things.
Tomorrow we are off to Margaret Bay where ever that is and will just spend the night there before moving on. Sea Mist and Imagine went there today but we will catch up to them in Escape River in a couple of days.
We sailed 83 miles to the Flinders group of islands and spent the night in calm waters with little wind. There were three boats with us, Sea Mist, Imagine, and Y Knot. It was just a quick overnight and we were all off in the morning to Morris Island. A very nice little island with a very big reef which is above water at low tide with miles of sand bars to walk on. As we were first to anchor at the island Marian and I put our dinghy in the water and ran the others to shore for a walk when they arrived. Everyone had a good time getting off the boats and stretching their legs. John on Sea Mist even went for two quick dips. Yes the water is getting warmer. I think we all would have gone swimming but we are all nervous about the Salties. The next morning before we left the anchorage I was looking at the beach right where John went for a dip and sure enough there was a very big Salty on the beach. We had a radio call the evening before from a local boat advising us to be careful as there are lots of Crocks around from here on up the coast. No swimming for the crew of Kilkea.
Prawn dragger in the Great Barrier Reef
Anchoring at Morris Island
Sand bar that goes for a few miles on the reef
A nice place for a walk but watch out for the Salties
We had another day of sailing all of which has been downwind so very comfortable just ghosting along at seven knots or so. We anchored in Portland Roads a big community of seven people but it does have a very good restaurant serving home cooked meals. So after a walk with Robin and Fergus from Y Knot we sat down for lunch when s/v Miss Behaving, ( Justin and Deb with children Hailey and Reilly) arrived so it was eight for lunch and good conversations. We had to leave the shore at around two thirty as the tide was going out and we would have been stuck far from water. We had been taken to shore by Robin and Fergus and when we returned to Kilkea they came aboard for a cold one and more boating talk. They are new to the cruising life and are from Brisbane so are very interested in our adventures and how we do things.
Tomorrow we are off to Margaret Bay where ever that is and will just spend the night there before moving on. Sea Mist and Imagine went there today but we will catch up to them in Escape River in a couple of days.
Monday, June 18, 2012
Lizard Island
We enjoyed a couple more days in Cairns seeing the art gallery and stocking the boat up with supplies as we will not have much of a chance for that until we get to Darwin. Cairns was a nice place and during the week there was very little wind so good to be tied up as we would have to have been powering rather than sailing.
On Friday morning we fueled Kilkea II and motor sailed up to Low Island for the night. This is a small island off of Port Douglas and during the day has many tourist boats bringing day trippers out for a tour. For us it was a early morning departure but not too early as three other boats left an hour before us. We had a great day of sailing with the winds behind us at about 20k and were wing on wing with flat seas. We were doing around 8-9 knots and sailed until late afternoon where we took refuge behind Cape Bedford. Not a great anchorage but ok for the night. The next morning we sailed 35 miles to Lizard Island. The book says this is the best anchorage on the whole coast of Aus and it is very nice. We have clear water and protection from the south east trades that are around 20-25 knots day and night. There are about 15 boats here and more than half are heading to Darwin for the rally. We had eight of us onboard Sunday night for sundowners. It was a good evening.
Monday we went for a walk/hike up to the top of the island which is about 360 meters high. This is where Captain Cook walked up to when he was stuck inside the barrier reef and was looking for a way out. The views are wonderful with the reefs very easy to see from the heights. You can see the outside of the barrier reef stretching to the horizon in both directions. It must have been daunting in those days with all the currents and tides and no engines to manoeuvre with. It was good to get to stretch the legs and today we plan to do some snorkeling to see the giant clams. The water is still rather cold so we will not be in the water long.
blue lagoon Lizard Island
boats in the bay Kilkea is the second on the right
Marian looking out at the Great Barrier Reef
We plan to stay here until Thursday as the winds will drop from 30k to 20k so it will be more comfortable.
On Friday morning we fueled Kilkea II and motor sailed up to Low Island for the night. This is a small island off of Port Douglas and during the day has many tourist boats bringing day trippers out for a tour. For us it was a early morning departure but not too early as three other boats left an hour before us. We had a great day of sailing with the winds behind us at about 20k and were wing on wing with flat seas. We were doing around 8-9 knots and sailed until late afternoon where we took refuge behind Cape Bedford. Not a great anchorage but ok for the night. The next morning we sailed 35 miles to Lizard Island. The book says this is the best anchorage on the whole coast of Aus and it is very nice. We have clear water and protection from the south east trades that are around 20-25 knots day and night. There are about 15 boats here and more than half are heading to Darwin for the rally. We had eight of us onboard Sunday night for sundowners. It was a good evening.
Monday we went for a walk/hike up to the top of the island which is about 360 meters high. This is where Captain Cook walked up to when he was stuck inside the barrier reef and was looking for a way out. The views are wonderful with the reefs very easy to see from the heights. You can see the outside of the barrier reef stretching to the horizon in both directions. It must have been daunting in those days with all the currents and tides and no engines to manoeuvre with. It was good to get to stretch the legs and today we plan to do some snorkeling to see the giant clams. The water is still rather cold so we will not be in the water long.
Marian at the Cooks cairn on top of Lizard island
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
some photos
Cairns
Well guess what the winds came up in the middle of the night and we bounced around a bit before leaving around 08.30. We sailed over to the south entrance to Hinchinbrook Island where we had to cross a sand bar that goes out a few miles into the bay. We were down to a couple of meters below our keel going in until we got behind the island and into the channel that is between it and the mainland. All went well and we anchored in behind a little island just off the channel. The surrounding on both sides of us were of Mangrove swamp and we were anchored in mud. This area is full of salt water crockodiles so we did not dip our toes into the water. A couple of guys (blokes) came by in a tinny (small aluminum boat) and offered us a mud crab they had caught. It was like a dungeness but with claws twice as big. It made a very nice dinner. That night was very calm and we had a good sleep.
The next morning we were off early and we motored sailed up between the island and mainland for fifteen miles or so. This area was hit by a cyclone last year and it was a Cat 5 which is the most dangerous of them in terms of winds. It did a lot of damage which still was very visible a year later. Mangroves are good places to put your boat into in case of a cyclone as they are very well routed to the mud and sand. You just drive your boat into them until you stop then anchor and tie all your lines to the branches and hope you survive. Hopefully we will never have to experience that. We ended up that day anchoring in Mourilyan harbour which is a man made very small place that only one freighter will fit so that is can load sugar. This area is full of sugar cane and the port has the biggest sugar shed in the country. We had another calm night and a good sleep.
Onwards to Cairns early the next morning sailing most of the way. We arrived into Carins and tied up in the marina and completed the formalities by 4pm, had a shower and went out for a walk and some dinner. We found a good Turkish restaurant and enjoyed the evening. This was Friday evening and the town was very busy with lots of people out enjoying themselves. Lots of young people here on holidays.
Saturday we cleaned up the boat and helped our friends to dock their boat Leu Cat and then went out for dinner with them. We had a delightful evening and another good meal at a place called Sause. It was particularly good as we had found a half price voucher in the local paper and it was good for everything even drinks! Dave and Mary Margaret thought that was pretty good.
Sunday morning we were talking to our neighbours, Zulu and Miri, a boat away, who own an Amel as well and they asked us if we wanted to share a car and do a drive about. We drove up to Mareeba which is know for its coffee plantations. We went to granite gorge which is a bunch of very big rocks with a stream running through it and a walk, actually a climb up and down sometimes on hands and knees which was a lot of fun. They have lots of Wallabies around and are very tame and come up to you for food that you pick up before going on the walk. They eat out of your hand and one Marian was feeding had a Joey in her pouch looking out to see what was happening. A nice day finishing off with a very good coffee before heading back to the marina. We had a glass of wine on Kilkea then went over to Miri and Zulu's boat for dinner. They are from Tel Aviv and are a lot of fun.
The next day we drove up to Port Douglas where we had lunch then went to Mossman Grove where we did a two hour walk through the rain forest. There was a good size river running through it with lots of people in swimming. The trails were very good so no climbing over rocks just a quiet walk in the rain forest. We were back at the boat a 18.30 and then met up with three other boat crews and went to dinner at Sause again as we had another 50% off coupon. There was us, Sea Mist, Leu Cat and Imagine who had just arrived from Vanuatu. An early night as we were tired.
Today we did some shopping before we took the car back and then did some more this afternoon enjoying a sunny day. We had dinner onboard this evening as we need a night off. Sometime this cruising life can be too social..... Naw what else would we do with our lives.
The next morning we were off early and we motored sailed up between the island and mainland for fifteen miles or so. This area was hit by a cyclone last year and it was a Cat 5 which is the most dangerous of them in terms of winds. It did a lot of damage which still was very visible a year later. Mangroves are good places to put your boat into in case of a cyclone as they are very well routed to the mud and sand. You just drive your boat into them until you stop then anchor and tie all your lines to the branches and hope you survive. Hopefully we will never have to experience that. We ended up that day anchoring in Mourilyan harbour which is a man made very small place that only one freighter will fit so that is can load sugar. This area is full of sugar cane and the port has the biggest sugar shed in the country. We had another calm night and a good sleep.
Onwards to Cairns early the next morning sailing most of the way. We arrived into Carins and tied up in the marina and completed the formalities by 4pm, had a shower and went out for a walk and some dinner. We found a good Turkish restaurant and enjoyed the evening. This was Friday evening and the town was very busy with lots of people out enjoying themselves. Lots of young people here on holidays.
Saturday we cleaned up the boat and helped our friends to dock their boat Leu Cat and then went out for dinner with them. We had a delightful evening and another good meal at a place called Sause. It was particularly good as we had found a half price voucher in the local paper and it was good for everything even drinks! Dave and Mary Margaret thought that was pretty good.
Sunday morning we were talking to our neighbours, Zulu and Miri, a boat away, who own an Amel as well and they asked us if we wanted to share a car and do a drive about. We drove up to Mareeba which is know for its coffee plantations. We went to granite gorge which is a bunch of very big rocks with a stream running through it and a walk, actually a climb up and down sometimes on hands and knees which was a lot of fun. They have lots of Wallabies around and are very tame and come up to you for food that you pick up before going on the walk. They eat out of your hand and one Marian was feeding had a Joey in her pouch looking out to see what was happening. A nice day finishing off with a very good coffee before heading back to the marina. We had a glass of wine on Kilkea then went over to Miri and Zulu's boat for dinner. They are from Tel Aviv and are a lot of fun.
The next day we drove up to Port Douglas where we had lunch then went to Mossman Grove where we did a two hour walk through the rain forest. There was a good size river running through it with lots of people in swimming. The trails were very good so no climbing over rocks just a quiet walk in the rain forest. We were back at the boat a 18.30 and then met up with three other boat crews and went to dinner at Sause again as we had another 50% off coupon. There was us, Sea Mist, Leu Cat and Imagine who had just arrived from Vanuatu. An early night as we were tired.
Today we did some shopping before we took the car back and then did some more this afternoon enjoying a sunny day. We had dinner onboard this evening as we need a night off. Sometime this cruising life can be too social..... Naw what else would we do with our lives.
Tuesday, June 5, 2012
Sunshine...???
We spent the 30th in Cid harbour with wind and more rain!!! We have had enough and left the next morning sailing 40 miles up the coast to Edgecumbe Bay. We had to work our way through a channel of low water to reach the anchorage and were welcomed by a couple of dolphins who stayed with us while we anchored. That evening where we were was behind some big hills and when the wind gusts hit the boat it was like a bullet hitting you and come to think of it that is what the Ausies call these winds. The next morning we were off at sunrise and motor sailed most of the day ducking into a anchorage behind a sand bar call Bolling Green. This worked out ok but was very exposed so were happy the winds did not kick up overnight. Early the next morning we sailed to a marina in Nelly Bay on Magnetic Island. We arrived just after noon and got off the boat and went for a long walk. The island reminds us of Gabriolla on the gulf islands at home. The people we met were very friendly and the pace was slow and relaxed. The rain did fall but the winds were down and we had a comfortable quiet evening.
The next morning we woke up to a sight we have not seen for some time. Blue Sky and sunshine!!! We took the bus over to Horseshoe bay where Sea Mist was anchored and had lunch at the pub then went for a walk up around old fortifications that were left over from the second world war. We are in the Coral Sea where there was a lot of action with the sinking of the air craft carrier Lexington and others not far off the Australian coast. The big attraction on this walk called the fort walk is it has the biggest natural collection of Koala's in Australia. Sure enough they were there in the eucalyptus trees eating the top leaves and looking very cuddly. I hear that the leaves they eat are a form of drug to them and that is why they sleep most of the time. It was good to do some more walking as sitting on the boat the last few weeks has not been good for us. After our walk about we went to dinner with John and Cheryl and then took the bus back to the marina around 2100. The next morning we woke to more blue skies so took the ferry to Townsville for the day. We stopped by the marina and saw Oso Blanco and then Sara II. John on Sara II was celebrating his 70th birthday with a flight on a float plane called the Red Baron. We then enjoyed the strand which is really very nice about as good as anything we have seen in Australia with great beaches and parks behind with all sorts of tropical trees, flowers and plants. Very nice. Then out for lunch and the ferry ride back to Magnetic Island and an early night.
Today we departed with the plan to sail slowly up to Orpheus Island about 35 miles away. Oh well the winds were a little more than we had planned for as at the beginning they were 20 plus knots abeam but they did drop off after a few hours to light winds. We ended up tying to a mooring ball in little Pioneer Bay with calm winds and seas. This is the first time since we left New Zealand that we have had such a night. I hope I have not jinxed us with that statement as the full moon has just risen and we have had an nice dinner with a glass of wine and we hope it stays this way for the whole night. Oh and today was clear and sunny. Yea!!
The next morning we woke up to a sight we have not seen for some time. Blue Sky and sunshine!!! We took the bus over to Horseshoe bay where Sea Mist was anchored and had lunch at the pub then went for a walk up around old fortifications that were left over from the second world war. We are in the Coral Sea where there was a lot of action with the sinking of the air craft carrier Lexington and others not far off the Australian coast. The big attraction on this walk called the fort walk is it has the biggest natural collection of Koala's in Australia. Sure enough they were there in the eucalyptus trees eating the top leaves and looking very cuddly. I hear that the leaves they eat are a form of drug to them and that is why they sleep most of the time. It was good to do some more walking as sitting on the boat the last few weeks has not been good for us. After our walk about we went to dinner with John and Cheryl and then took the bus back to the marina around 2100. The next morning we woke to more blue skies so took the ferry to Townsville for the day. We stopped by the marina and saw Oso Blanco and then Sara II. John on Sara II was celebrating his 70th birthday with a flight on a float plane called the Red Baron. We then enjoyed the strand which is really very nice about as good as anything we have seen in Australia with great beaches and parks behind with all sorts of tropical trees, flowers and plants. Very nice. Then out for lunch and the ferry ride back to Magnetic Island and an early night.
Today we departed with the plan to sail slowly up to Orpheus Island about 35 miles away. Oh well the winds were a little more than we had planned for as at the beginning they were 20 plus knots abeam but they did drop off after a few hours to light winds. We ended up tying to a mooring ball in little Pioneer Bay with calm winds and seas. This is the first time since we left New Zealand that we have had such a night. I hope I have not jinxed us with that statement as the full moon has just risen and we have had an nice dinner with a glass of wine and we hope it stays this way for the whole night. Oh and today was clear and sunny. Yea!!
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